Key factors in selecting pearls:
Luster – Luster is a combination of surface brilliance and a deep seated glow. The luster of a good quality pearl should be bright and not dull. You should be able to see your own reflection clearly on the surface of a pearl. Any pearl that appears too white, dull, or chalky indicates low quality. - Surface – Cleanliness refers to the absence of disfiguring spots, bumps, or cracks on the surface of a pearl. The cleaner the surface of the pearl, the more valuable it is.
- Shape – Since cultured pearls are grown by oysters in nature, it is very rare to find a perfectly round pearl. However, the rounder the pearl, the more valuable it is. Baroque pearls, which are asymmetrical in shape, can be lustrous and appealing and often cost less than round pearls.
- Color – Cultured pearls come in a variety of colors from rose to black. While the color of a pearl is really a matter of the wearer’s preference, usually rose or silver/white pearls tend to look best on fair skins while cream and gold-toned pearls are flattering to darker complexions.
- Size – Cultured pearls are measured by their diameter in millimeters. They can be smaller than one millimeter in the case of tiny seed pearls or as large as twenty millimeters for a big South Sea pearl. The larger the pearl, other factors being equal, the more valuable it will be. The average-sized pearl sold today is between 7 and 7½ millimeters.
The Variety of Cultured Pearls
Akoya Akoya pearls are the classic cultured pearls of Japan. They are the most lustrous of all pearls found anywhere in the world. In recent years, China has been successful in producing Akoya pearls within their own waters. However, at this time, they are unable to produce as brilliant a luster as high-quality Japanese Akoya cultured pearls.
White South Sea
White South Sea cultured pearls are grown in large tropical or semi-tropical oysters in Australia, Myanmar, Indonesia, and other Pacific countries. They generally range in size from 10mm to 20mm and command premium prices because of their relative rarity and large size.
South Sea Black
South Sea black cultured pearls are grown in a variety of large pearl oysters found primarily in French Polynesia. Their beautiful, unique color, and large size can command very high prices.
Freshwater
Freshwater pearls can be found in bays and rivers throughout the world. They are easily cultivated from freshwater mollusks in China, Japan, and the United States. Many are less lustrous than salt water cultured pearls, but their low price, unique shapes, and colors have made them popular jewelry items in recent years.
Mabé Mabé pearls are hemispherical cultured pearls grown against the inside shell of an oyster rather than within the oyster’s body. They generally are used in earrings or rings, which conceal their flat backs.